Interview with international make-up artist Els Van Schoor
Make-up can be a real confidence booster for those who suffer from acne as it helps to even out the skin tone, which can make those annoying spots and blemishes less visible. With so many products on the market, it can be difficult to know which are the right ones for your skin type.
We spoke to international make-up artist Els Van Schoor from www.blondemake-up.com about what is the best make-up for acne prone skin and what the tricks of the trade are for making those spots disappear…
What is the best way to cover up a spot?
Before covering up a pimple, it is important to cleanse the skin thoroughly. However, those who suffer from spots and acne are prone to over-cleansing, often with harsh products, which can actually aggravate their skin condition. I would advise to deep cleanse the skin in the evening with a cleansing product that is suitable for your skin type. In the morning, just use a micellar water to refresh the skin, which is a much gentler alternative to harsh cleansers and will help achieve a balanced complexion.
After cleansing the skin, opt for a light day cream that works for your skin type or a BB or CC Cream. I would always consider what your plan is for the day when applying make-up. For instance, if you are staying at home and don’t have to venture out that day, it’s better to leave your skin uncovered and let your pimples heal.
However, if you are going out to work or to see friends, choose a foundation that provides a light coverage or alternatively, a tinted day cream or a BB / CC Cream that is suitable for your combination or oily skin. If the pimples are still visible, use a concealer in a colour that is very similar to your own skin tone, but with a ‘cool’ undertone, which means there is a hint of green in the formulation that helps to counteract the redness of the pimple. I really like the Tea Tree Concealer from The Body Shop. To set your foundation and concealer, always use a setting powder, which will help to keep your make-up in place and leave your complexion shine-free all day long.
If you are going to a party, then apply a primer after your day cream. It makes sure your make-up stays in place for hours and it also creates a barrier between your skin and your make-up, which is great as it allows you to use heavier foundation and setting powder for a more glamorous look. Of course, you can still use a concealer if your spots need extra coverage.
What type of foundation should you use when suffering from acne?
If you are suffering from lots of spots or acne, I would be careful with heavy, cakey foundations as these don’t let the skin breathe and make acne more visible to the eye. Instead, opt for a liquid foudation that has a light texture or mineral foundations and powders, which are more gentle to the skin. Also, be careful with setting powders – if you opt for a heavy setting poweder it will draw the eye to uneven skin and spots so rather go for a lighter alternative. It is better to use lighter base products and camouflage individual spots with concealer, which will give a much more natural and even effect compared to using heavy foundations and powders.
Does wearing make-up make the problem worse?
Yes, it does, which is why you shouldn’t wear make-up all the time and really take into account what your plan is for the day. If you can let your skin breathe for a while, then it will help your overall complexion in the long run.
What are the top make-up products you would recommend for those suffering from acne or blemishes?
In my make-up bag, you can find Laura Mercier’s Secret Camouflage, MAC’s Studio Finish Concealer, Cliniques Anti-Blemish Solutions Liquid Make-up and MAC Studio Careblend Pressed Powder, which are all great to cover up spot prone skin. It is best to go for products that have been specifically formulated for spot prone skin so don’t just buy the latest foundation, but really research if it is the right one for your skin type.
How do you prevent your skin from becoming oily during the day?
If your complexion is prone to becoming shiny and oily throughout the day, then mineral make-up may not be the right choice for you as it doesn’t mattify the skin very well. The combination of Clinique’s Anti-Blemish Solutions Liquid Make-up with MAC’s Studio Careblend Powder is a much better option to keep shiny skin at bay. A great tip is to apply the setting powder with a small powder puff on your T zone and then use a brush to distribute the powder more evenly over the rest of your face. If your face still becomes shiny during the day, use some blotting tissues with tea tree extract, which are available from The Body Shop.
Would you recommend using your hands or using brushes to apply make-up?
Of course, when you are a professional make-up artist you tend to use brushes and clean these after every use. However, if you are just focusing on your own make-up, it is perfecty fine to use your hands as you can clean your hands thoroughly – and even disinfect them – before applying make-up. In addition, the wamth of your hands will help blend your concealer and foundation into the skin for a natural look. Brushes are fine, but you have to thoroughly clean these after every use.
How can you make a spot disappear more quickly?
As mentioned, always wash your hands before touching the face and if you use make-up brushes, make sure these are clean and free from any bacteria. Also, never blow powder off your brushes as you just transfer bacteria from your mouth to your brush. Using products that contain tea tree oil can help as well. Most importantly, don’t be tempted to use aggressive products – these just dry out the skin and don’t actually help with your acne problem. Instead, be gentle, not only with your make-up but also with your skincare and don’t over-exfoliate and over-cleanse your skin.